Gardening Tips

Winter Tree Pruning Tips

Now is the time to prune many of the trees in your yard.
They are dormant now and don't mind being pruned at all.

1.  Start on the inside of the tree.  Remove any dead wood
or any branches that are growing toward the center of the
tree.

2.  Remove any branches that are crossing another branch
or rubbing together.  The inside of the tree needs to be open
and airy.

3.  Move to the outside of the tree.  Stand back and look at
the tree and imagine how you would like the tree to look.
Draw an imaginary line around the tree to the exact shape
of how you want the tree to look.  Then start removing any
branches that are growing outside of that line.

4.  The same rules apply for the outside of the tree.  Open
the tree up a little and remove any branches that are too
close to another branch or are rubbing or crossing another
branch.

6.  When removing branches near the trunk of the tree
always make your cuts as close to flush with the trunk as
possible and do not leave a stub sticking out.

7.  Wounds larger than a 50¢ piece can be painted over with
a tree wound dressing, but in most cases it's not necessary,
ands some professionals feel that wound dressings slow the
healing process.

8.  That's it!  Your tree will love you for it.

**********************************************

Paper whites - Fragrant Easy to Grow Indoor Flowers

For many gardeners, winter means several dreary months of 
anxiously waiting for spring planting season.  You can easily
fill your need to garden and brighten your indoor environment
by growing fragrant paperwhites over winter.

Paperwhites are members of the Narcissus family and grow from
bulbs like their cousins, daffodils and jonquils.  Native to
parts of Europe and Asia, paperwhites can be grown outdoors in
growing zones 9-11, but they can easily be grown indoors
anywhere.  Look for paperwhite bulbs wherever you buy tulip or
daffodil bulbs.  Some supermarkets and shopping centers even
sell the bulbs in late fall and winter.

For a nice display of paperwhites, plant the bulbs in groups
of at least five.  The bulbs can be planted in any waterproof
container where they'll fit, and they don't mind being crowded
as long as the bulbs don't touch each other.  Paperwhites grow
to be about 15 inches tall, so a tall, narrow container will
help keep the long stems from flopping over.

Fill the container halfway with small stones or gravel for
drainage.  Set the bulbs on top of the stones with their pointy
ends up, then fill around the bulbs with more small stones or
potting soil.  Do not completely cover the bulbs as this will
delay blooming.  The top half of the bulb should be peeking out
from the soil or stones.

Water the bulbs well, but not so much that the bulbs stay wet.  
Only the roots of the bulbs should be in water.  Too much water
will rot the bulbs.

For faster blooming, immediately place your planted paperwhite
bulbs in a warm bright room.  The bulbs will sprout quickly and
the heavily scented white blossoms will appear in 4-6 weeks.  
To delay blooming, keep the potted bulbs in a dark and cool, but
not freezing room for a week or two until the sprouts appear.

Once paperwhites are done blooming, they should be discarded in
northern climates.  Indoor growing is exhausting for the bulbs
and they will only bloom once.  Paperwhites are not winter hardy
and would not survive outdoors, except in zones 9-11 where they
will come back year after year.

************************************


Late Fall Planting and Transplanting Tips

People are asking;  "Is it too late to plant?" 

The answer is no.

You can plant right up until the ground freezes.  If you have
a plant in a burlap ball or a container, that plant is going to
be much happier in the ground than on top of the ground.
Even if the ground is cold and almost frozen.

When planting do not apply any fertilizer, and make sure
you don't plant too deep.  The top of the root ball should
be about 1" higher than the existing grade.  In heavy clay
soil you should plant them a lot higher than that and then
mound the soil over the root ball so the roots can breath.

The rules for fall "Transplanting" are slightly different.

Transplanting involves digging an existing plant out of the
ground, and that is sure to cause some trauma to the roots.
Therefore, you should not do any fall transplanting until the
plant is completely dormant (sleeping) for the winter.  Once
sound asleep, you can transplant away.

"But Mike, how do I know?"

Plants go completely dormant after they've experienced
the first really hard freeze of the season.  Not a heavy frost,
but an actual freeze where the temperature dips below
32 degrees F. for several hours.

Once your plants do go dormant, you can safely transplant
them from then until early spring.  Once they start to wake
up in the spring, it's "Game Over" until next fall.  Successful
gardening is all about timing.



****************************************


7 Tips for Getting Your Lawn and Lawn Mower
Ready for Winter

1.  Lower your lawn mower blade.  Over the summer you
probably had your mower blade raised up pretty high,
but before winter you want to get your grass cut down
lower so the lawn gets good air circulation and you don't
get snow mold.

2.  Sharpen your mower blade.  Having a sharp mower
blade isn't super important right now, but come spring
and summer you want that blade sharp so it cuts the
grass and doesn't tear it leaving jagged edges to turn
brown.  Don't make the blade razor sharp or it will dull
quickly.

3.  Change the oil in your mower and grease all fittings
and lubricate all moving parts.  Especially cables that
slide inside of housings.  They can rust up over with winter
and not work correctly next season.

4.  Replace the spark plug in your mower and check
the belts for cracks and frayed edges.  Make sure
all moving parts work freely, but without a lot of play.

5.  Check your lawn for grubs.  With a spade cut a right
angle into your lawn and try and pull back the sod.  If it
pulls up easily, check the soil closely for white Japanese
Beetle Grubs.

6.  Look for signs of skunks or other animals digging in
your lawn.  Look for mole tunnels or areas that seemed raised
and squishy.  If you have moles or skunks feeding on your
lawn you probably have an infestation of Japanese Beetle
Grubs.  

7.  Look for any bare areas in your lawn and scratch those
areas loose with a 4 tine garden cultivator and re seed the
bare areas.  Always use the same grass seed blend that
is currently in your lawn.  If you don't know what the blend
is, make sure you buy a high quality blend of at least four
different types of grass seed for your climate. 

************************************

Fall is the Time to Plant Garlic

Fresh garlic is a staple in many kitchens, and good cooks know that a
hint of garlic can enhance many dishes. The pungent bulbs are incredibly
easy to grow and homegrown garlic will be far better and keep longer
than what is sold in the supermarket. 

Fall is the best time to plant garlic. Garlic cloves 
may be planted in well-drained soil from about the time of the first

frost up until November. It is harvested 
in the summer after the bottom half of the leaves have 
begun to turn brown.

To plant garlic, break apart the bulbs into individual 
cloves. To grow larger garlic bulbs, plant only the 
largest cloves. Plant the cloves about two inches deep 
and four to six inches apart in rich soil. The roots 
will start to grow over winter, but you won't see any top growth 
until spring.

Give your garlic a blanket of mulch to protect the bulbs from heaving
out of the soil over winter and to help keep down weeds. 
Young garlic can be mistaken for grass when it begins to sprout,
but a quick pinch of the leaves will release their aroma and 
eliminate any mistakes when weeding the patch.

There are many varieties of garlic available to choose from,
but two main types; soft neck and hard neck. 
The soft neck varieties have a soft stem that makes them easy to braid. 
Soft neck garlic bulbs have larger cloves on their outside layer with 
smaller cloves towards the center of the bulb. Soft neck garlic
generally stores well, up to nine months.

Hard neck garlic has a stiff central stalk with fewer but 
larger cloves. It tends to be more winter hardy than soft neck 
varieties but doesn't store as well, typically only five to six months. 
Hard neck garlic is a bit easier to peel than the soft neck varieties.

If you enjoy garlic, try planting some this fall. You'll 
be glad you did!


**********************************************

Controlling Earwigs in Your Garden and Yard


Earwigs are unwelcome guests in most everyone's garden or
home.  These ¾" long, reddish brown insects look particularly
formidable, with their rear pincers and quick movements. 
Earwigs can damage your plants, but they rarely bite people. 
Their name comes from an old European superstition that
these nocturnal insects will crawl into the ears, and then
into the brains, of people while they sleep.  (Remember the
chilling scene from the movie "Star Trek:  The Wrath of Khan"? 
Creepy, but pure fiction!) 

Earwigs are native to Europe and were accidentally introduced
to the US in the early part of the 20th Century.  Since then,
the population has spread quickly across the country.

Earwigs overwinter and lay their eggs in the soil.  They hide
during the day and come out at night to feed on insects and
plants.  Earwigs will eat aphids, mites, fleas and the eggs of
other insects.  But for most folks, the bad habits of earwigs
outweigh the good.   They'll also feed on a variety of
flowering plants and hostas, along with some garden vegetables. 
They'll hide under well caps, inside electrical outlets and
any other dark place they can crawl into. 

To control earwigs, some experts suggest removing possible
hiding places from your yard to create a dry, sunny environment
that earwigs will avoid.  But if a dry, sunny yard is not your
cup of tea, there are chemical and organic methods for
controlling the nasty beasties.

Sevin and some other chemical insecticides will kill earwigs. 
Ask your local garden center what they have available for
earwig control, and follow the directions on the package. 
Insecticidal soaps kill earwigs on contact, and should be
sprayed in the evening when the earwigs are active.

You can also trap earwigs by placing damp, rolled up newspapers
overnight in the areas they frequent.  Gather the newspapers
in the morning and shake out any earwigs into a bucket of
soapy water.  If earwigs get inside your house, just vacuum
them up.  They come inside to find a hiding place, but they
do not breed indoors.


************************************

Attracting Beneficial Insects to Your Garden


The previous info was all about how beneficial insects
can help you fight plant-eating insects in your garden.  But
if there aren't any beneficial insects in your garden, they
can't come to your aid.  This week you will learn how to
attract beneficial insects to your garden. 

There are a variety of common plants and flowers that attract
beneficial insects.  Beneficial insects are not only attracted
to plants which are infected with their insect prey, but they
also tend to be selective about the plants on which they lay
their eggs.  Many beneficial insects also spend part of their
lives surviving on the nectar and pollen of their favorite
plants.  Ideally, your garden plants will provide food, shelter
and a nursery for beneficial insects.  Some of these plants
may already be in your garden. 

Caterpillars, leafhoppers, beetles, moths and grubs are attacked
by tiny parasitic wasps.  Because they are so tiny themselves,
parasitic wasps prefer tiny flowers when they want a drink of
sweet nectar.  Parasitic wasps will frequent a garden that
features some yarrow, dill, parsley, Queen Ann's lace or tansy. 
These umbrella-shaped flowers are very attractive to a number
of beneficial insects.

Green lacewings and ladybugs will also appreciate the same
umbrella-shaped flowers.  They also like cosmos, prairie
sunflower and even dandelions and alfalfa.  Lacewings prefer
to lay their eggs in shady areas that are protected from the
weather.  They'll be happy to find some of their favorite
plants in a quiet, protected corner of the garden.

Various herbs are attractive to some beneficial insects. 
Adding some herbs here and there amongst your flowers or
vegetables will surely lure some beneficial insects to work
in your garden.  Lemon balm, pennyroyal, spearmint and parsley
will attract hoverflies, parasitic wasps and tachinid flies. 
Tachinid flies look like hairy house flies and they lay their
eggs on caterpillars which can do a lot of damage in a garden. 
Tachinid fly larvae will destroy corn earworms, cabbage worms,
armyworms, and other fly larvae.

Providing the proper plants for food and shelter is just one
step toward attracting beneficial insects to your garden.  The
most important thing to do to encourage beneficial insects in
your garden is to stop using chemical pesticides.  Chemical
pesticides are not selective and will kill both harmful and
beneficial insects.  Many organic insecticides are selective
and when used properly, will not harm the beneficial insects. 

****************************

Helpful Insects for Your Garden

Have you seen any baby ladybugs in your garden? 

They may be on your plants right now, quietly working away for
you in a miniature drama as they rid your plants of aphids,
spider mites and other small insects.  Adult ladybugs also
dine on insects, but it's their young - the larvae - that are
the most voracious killers. 

Adult ladybugs will seek out plants that are infected with
aphids and they'll lay clusters of tiny yellow eggs on the
plant. Within a few days the tiny ladybug larvae hatch and
begin hunting for food. 

Ladybug larvae look much like tiny black alligators with orange
stripes or spots on their backs.  When they first hatch, they
are no larger than this comma , but they grow quickly and
aggressively search for food.

Recently I noticed a heavy aphid population on the new growth
of a Rose of Sharon shrub.  I also noticed some ladybugs on
the plant, so instead of spraying the plant I decided to watch
Nature take its course.  Soon I observed many ladybug larvae
busily scouring the plant and within a week there were no more
aphids.  These little guys do a great job!

There are other beneficial insects that will help you keep a
healthy garden.  It's important to recognize these good insects
so they aren't inadvertently destroyed.  Many of them have the
appearance of being harmful, but they really aren't...unless
you're an aphid.

To learn more about beneficial insects and to see photos of
the good guys of the insect world, go to this page: 
http://entweb.clemson.edu/eiis/pdfs/bb1.pdf

*********************************************

Trimming Rhododendrons and Azaleas

Here in Northern Ohio, zone 5, Rhododendrons and Azaleas
are in full bloom right now.  Rhododendrons and Azaleas
start making new flower buds for next year soon after they
finish blooming.  So the ideal time to trim them is right after
they finish blooming.  That way you cut off the seed pods
from this years flowers, and get the plant trimmed before it
has a chance to set any new flower buds.  Once trimmed,
the plant will set new flower buds and your plants will be
loaded up with blooms for next year.

Most people are afraid to trim Rhododendrons because they
aren't  sure how to go about it.  I just take my hedge shears and
cut away, just like I would any other plant.  The result?  A
beautiful plant that is tight and full, and loaded with blooms
each year.

Most Rhododendrons and Azaleas are slow growing evergreens
so they don't need or like much fertilizer.  I never fertilize mine.
If you want to make them really happy, just make sure they are
planted in good soil that drains well.

If you have a Rhododendron that is doing poorly, chances are
it's in an area that stays too wet.  Maybe back by a wall where
a downspout drains and the soil stays moist all the time.  They
hate that.  Raise it up and put good topsoil around it.  You'll
see a difference in the plant.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

It Pays to Compost
 

More and more people these days are composting, and for good
reason.  Composting is a simple process which offers many benefits.
 
When you turn your garden refuse and kitchen scraps into compost,
you are creating fertilizer for your plants and conserving
landfill space.  Compost will improve your soil, giving it the
ability to hold moisture and drain well.  Even hard clay soil
will be improved by adding compost.
 
Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be. 
Compost bins and tumblers can be purchased or you can make your
own, or simply leave your compost materials in a pile without
a bin. 
 
To make compost, you'll need a good mix of "brown" and "green"
material.  Brown materials are things like dried leaves, coffee
grounds, shredded paper and straw.  Green materials are grass
clippings, fresh garden refuse and kitchen scraps.  Add the brown
and green ingredients in layers,.  Avoid adding bones, meat
scraps or dairy products to your compost.  These items decompose
slowly and will attract animals to your compost pile. 
 
Manure is also a good addition to compost, but manure from
meat-eating animals should be avoided.  Manure contains a great
deal of nitrogen and also beneficial microbes that will help the
composting process.  Manure makes a great fertilizer, but it
should be composted before adding it to the garden because fresh
manure is so strong or "hot" that it will burn tender plants.
 
A compost pile will heat up and cook more quickly if it is kept
moist.  Compost should be as moist as a sponge that has been
wrung out.  Too much or too little moisture will slow the
decomposition process.  A compost pile that is cooking properly
will feel warm or hot inside the pile.  If the temperature inside
the pile is no warmer than the air temperature, the pile needs
more green material  and perhaps more moisture.
 
Air circulation is also important for a compost pile.  A compost
pile that is regularly mixed or turned will decompose much faster
than one that is never turned.  But given enough time, even a
compost pile that is never turned will eventually decompose.
 
Concerned about the smell of a compost pile or worried that it
will attract rodents?  Simply bury fresh materials in the middle
of the pile or cover the smelly material with some soil.  Burying
the material in the pile will add some needed air circulation,
and the addition of soil will also include some helpful microbes.
 
Finished compost will look like good black soil and can be added
liberally to your garden.  Make you own compost for your garden
and you will soon understand why it is called black gold.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Growing Potatoes

Potatoes, taters, spuds....call them what you will, potatoes
are a staple in the diet of many people all across the
planet and they're also incredibly easy to grow.  But
before you run out to the garden with your shovel and hoe,
there are a few things to know about planting potatoes.
 
You may have heard the old saying that potatoes should always
be planted on Good Friday.  This is an old wives' tale that
should be forgotten.  Good Friday does not fall on the same
calendar date each year and many parts of the country are
still buried under snow at that time.
 
Potatoes should not be planted too early while the ground is
still icy.  Potatoes do tolerate cool soil and a light frost,
but not much growth will take place until the soil warms up a bit.  
 
You won't find potato seedlings or packets of potato seeds for
sale at your local garden center.  Instead, potatoes are grown
from seed potatoes.   A seed potato is nothing more than an
ordinary potato with at least one "eye" or sprout.  Garden
centers and seed catalogs offer an amazing variety of seed potatoes.
 
Seed potatoes may be planted whole or cut into pieces with at
least one eye per piece.  Seed potatoes with more eyes will
grow to produce a larger quantity of smaller potatoes while
seed potatoes with fewer eyes will produce fewer, but larger
potatoes.
 
If you choose to cut your seed potatoes into smaller pieces,
divide them the day before planting.  This will allow the cut to
slightly heal which helps prevent soil-borne diseases from infecting
your crop.  Always choose seed potatoes that are free from blemishes.
 
Plant your seed potatoes two to three inches deep in good, rich soil.  
Rows of potatoes should be about three feet apart and the potatoes
within the row should be about a foot apart.  To prevent scab on your
potatoes, toss a handful of dry pine needles in each hole with the
seed potato.  Scab is a soil-borne disease that causes scab-like
blemishes on the potato skins.  Planting your potatoes in a different
area of your garden each year will also help prevent scab.
 
Depending on the warmth of the soil, potato plants will begin to
emerge one to three weeks after planting.  When the plants are about
a foot tall, use your hoe to mound six to eight inches of soil
against the potato plants.  This is called "hilling" and it ensures
the little potatoes will stay out of the sunlight that causes them
to be bitter and green.
 
Keep your potato plants evenly watered during the growing season.  
Once the plants have bloomed, you can begin to harvest little new
potatoes.  After the foliage has begun to dry and die back, the
entire crop can be dug.  Allow the potatoes to dry for a day or
two out of direct sunlight before storing them in a cool, dry and
dark place.  
 
Freshly dug potatoes taste so much better than any you'll buy at
the grocery store.  Grow some yourself and discover how easy and fun it is to produce a staple crop of delicious potatoes for your family.

-Mike McGroarty
McGroarty Enterprises Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Perry, Ohio 44081